Ever been to Lake Ellis?”

“Uhm, no”

“Well, let’s go”

“Erm, okay?”

**ONE WEEK OR SO LATER**

 

We left Nairobi at 5am, in which case we were lucky to have a car as it is then easy to manoeuvre around the government instructions as far as curfew times go. The then 9pm curfew was not doing us any favours. It is a 5-hours’ drive from Nairobi and we were aiming to knock on Chogoria gate by 10am. The Google Maps direction to the Kenya Wildlife Service Chogoria gate is correct. Unlike us, I suggest you pay key attention to the map once you’re past Chuka so you don’t miss your turn and end up snaking through dirt back roads to make your way back on course. We missed our turn by a cool 11 minutes’ drive because SOMEONE———.

 

There is that wee bit of dirt road to the main entry to the forest, how come the road within the forest is better than this stretch? Nonetheless, the road up takes a slight steep gradient from the main entry and gets steeper once you leave behind the bamboo belt further up. Not that far in, the road gets dotted with mostly elephant spoor, although we did not see any elephant. The drive to the KWS gate felt like an eternity to an extent that we started second-guessing ourselves – were we on the right track or not!

 

As we are about to finish the seemingly unending climb, we bump into a stalled pick-up circa 500m from the KWS gate – more on that in a wee bit. Finally!!!! the KWS gate was in sight, a sigh of relief and a wee whoo hooo!! A wee chit chat with the KWS officer manning the gate and he goes “did you guys pass a stalled pick-up on your way here,”

 

Us: Yeah!?

Him: So, erm….you will have to drive back there, so that you can make your Mpesa payment, it’s the only spot where there is GSM coverage.

 

Us: Oh!

Personally, I thought that that was awesome. They should however put a marker around that area, I suppose the stalled pick-up is never always there. Me thinks.

 

We embark on the climb soon after getting done with the entry formalities. I should point out that we did not come with our own guide, we thought we’d find one at the KWS gate. However, we did confirm with the KWS officer at the gate that the trail to Lake Ellis is pretty much straight forward.

 

However, barely 100m into our hike, we are met with a route decision, turn left into a field full of the tussock grass or push on towards the KWS bandas and hope that that’s the trail. I’m thinking to myself that just maybe we should have secured a guide to tag along with us. My partner decided to go back to the gate and get clarifications on the hike trail. This time, armed with authoritative info, we made our way through the tussock grass, which doesn’t stretch to far. As we match through the grass, my partner spots a smartphone dropped by a group that is ahead of us who are making their way back clearly combing through the grass searching for it. We hand it to them as we proceed – the relief on the owner’s face. They say it is a two-hour hike to Lake Ellis, we took 3 hours, here’s why, hear me out; the scenery all through to Lake Ellis is magical (for lack of a better word) and they scream at you to take photos of them; from fruticose lichen “old man’s beard” anchored on backs of trees, dried up whistling thorn et cetera et cetera.

 

We spot several armies of red ants following the usual scent their leader left behind as they head out to forage. As the road meanders up the trail, we get to a Y-junction, we took the right one after inspecting for recent human/vehicular track, the left one, we later found out that it leads to Lake Michaelson. Up ahead, Mugi Hill welcomes you to its neck of the woods, and quite a distant way the Giant’s Billiard Table just stares back at you. We come by a number of streams flowing with what to the naked eye is super clean water. A few meters ahead, we finally spot a sign saying that Lake Ellis is 2kms that way, if you are looking straight at the sign, ‘that way’ is to your right. This steep however dwarfs the other steeps we faced while driving up to the KWS gate, it’s got loose gravel of different sizes, the climb was painstaking.

 

I should point out that whatever is awaiting you on the other side is worth it a million times. The trek opens to the sight of a part of Lake Ellis in all its glory. Its entire span unfolds as you get nearer and it’s simply SCENIC! SERENE! You just sit there, savour everything and COLLECT MOMENTS. The beauty is hard to contain. YOU DO NOT FEEL LIKE LEAVING. EVER! You easily get lost in your thoughts and the beauty in front of you all fused into one, borderline psychedelic.

 

Oh! You do get a chance to glimpse at the peaks whenever the clouds feel like they’d want you to. They did feel like, for us, I think twice.

 

We had carried packed lunch with us, I was famished and went ahead to set up. At those temperatures, everything gets cold real quick. My partner tried siphoning water from her hydration pack and the water was near freezing cold. Eating was therefore done in a flash, at the shores of Lake Ellis and with a backdrop to die for. We got done, took some photos here and there. This was a near random day hike so spending the night there was off the books, having said that, we started on the descend. Reluctantly. I couldn’t bring myself to turn my head and look at the receding lake behind me. We had eaten into our overall hike time during the climb up, we therefore had to make up for the ‘lost’ time during the descend, which we ran most of it. That, and trying to beat a cloud of rain that was closing in on us very fast, which it did with about a kilometer left to reach the KWS gate.

 

Booking information:

Scenic Serene Adventures Ltd took care of our booking and itinerary. You can look them up at sereneadventure.com or reach out to them at resevations@sereneadventure.com

Good things come to those who wait…even those who wait impatiently I have desired to visit the Mara for a long time now and my first experience was nothing short of spectacular. I finally made the trip last month accompanied by close friends. We had a lovely stay at Mara Serena which according to our guide was an ideal spot. The lodge is not too far from Mara River where the crossing takes place. Upon arrival we had a quick lunch and set off for the Mara River.

 

Our small group camped by the river for slightly over an hour waiting patiently as the herd built up and moved back and forth along the river bank. The Wildebeest seemed to be looking for a good spot we assumed. At some point it looked as if the crossing was not going to happen when the whole herd retreated. They however came rushing back and one gnu came close to the edge of the river and after a few minutes took the plunge. And then it was on. One after the other they all jumped in. It was an oddly calming cacophony of sounds. The splashing noise as the herd jumped into the water, the bellowing of the wildebeest, braying of Zebras, loud grunting of hippos which floated to the surface and moved further downstream sort of leaving a clear path for the wildebeests and zebras. I was hoping for some predator action when a crocodile started swimming slowly towards the crossing point. It tried to grab a calf but did not succeed. It was mesmerizing, I watched in silence taking it all in as the whole herd made its way safely across the river before the sun began to set. What a welcome! Our guide informed us just how lucky we were to see the crossing on the first day.

 

You probably read or heard about the wildebeests that drowned? more than 300 wildebeest drown in the mara. Well as we crossed the mara bridge entering the reserve heading to the ticketing office, the air smelled rotten. Wildebeest carcass littered either side of the bridge as vultures circled the sky above. The stench was too much – a perfect mask wearing moment dare I say – and it did not help that we had to wait a while at the bridge while our tickets were processed.

 

To pass time as we waited, our crazy selves posed and smiled for a few…okay many photos Special breathing skills were needed here.

 

We were fortunate to spot four of the big five. No rhino was sighted. Wildebeest herds could be seen all over the park as we went on a game drive the following day.  Apparently, this was one of the biggest migrations in a while.

 

The lioness in this picture was spotted alone and it nibbled on the grass briefly before walking away. Our guide said that happens at times. I have heard it mentioned as well. I will read up on it later to find out why.

 

Topi carcass and a short distance away five satisfied cheetahs resting under the shade provided by bushes. We missed the hunting session but suspected that the topi was the menu. There were few safari vans out this day so we could at least get somewhat good shots of the cheetahs before the crowding of vans that would soon take place once the word of their sighting had spread. The cheetahs pictured here are the famous tano bora cheetahs of the Masai Mara the fast five tano bora  males.

 

We had two leopard sightings. The first leopard had cubs and was hidden under a thicket it was hard to see it unless you got really close. The rangers on patrol informed us it looked uneasy and only allowed vehicles to pass by the area for a brief moment and move on. The wardens did not want the leopard agitated.

 

The one pictured here was spotted much later. If you look closely you will see the hooves of its meal dangling from the tree branch. Its coat was beautiful. I now see why wearing leopard print clothes or shoes oozes style. As we marveled at the site of the leopard and listened to interesting facts shared by our guide, we saw a hyena in the distance. It had obviously smelled the kill. It came just close enough for us to see it. We waited, hoping for a confrontation, some drama. But instead it went the opposite direction, we guessed to get some back up from its fellow hyenas. Moments later it was back on the scene but at a distance then finally went about its way. In the picture, the hyena can be seen between the two vans, using the as a shield as it looks in the direction of the leopard.

 

To top off a beautiful day. A light drizzle and then the sun began to set. I still do not know how to describe this sunset and the pictures we took do not do it justice either. It started off as a normal looking sunset. Rich hues of orange bright rays spreading out into the horizon and then slowly as we got near the lodge it changed to a fiery red orange that filled the skyline. That was just it for me. The perfect moment!

 

That sunset, that moment when the colours started to change and slowly the sun went down, down until you could see it no more. It’s safe to say that moment was the highlight for me. I felt this sense of calm, contentment, a bit misty eyed. Our guide stopped for us to take it all in until it got dark. I know no photograph can do it justice but I think this one comes close.

 

My Byline:

Lynda Ouma – Communication practitioner and traveler.

You are probably wondering, travelling in the time of COVID-19, were there any prevention measures?

• The lodge staff wore face masks and shields at all times
• Guests were expected to have their masks on at all times except when having meals
• Automatic hand sanitizer machines were set up at various points
• Though the food stations were set up buffet style, there were kitchen staff assigned to serve the guests. We were not to handle anything except our plates.
• Facilities such as the gym and spa remained closed for obvious reasons
• The swimming pool was open but its use was regulated to family groups or persons travelling as a group. One had to book their slot prior to avoid overcrowding

Booking Information:

Scenic Serene Adventures took care of my booking and itinerary. You can  look them up at http://sereneadventure.com/ or reach out at info@sereneadventure.com

Aivamus volutpat eros pulvinar velit laoreet, sit amet egestas erat dignissim. Sed quis rutrum tellus, sit amet viverra felis. Cras sagittis sem sit amet urna feugiat rutrum. Nam nulla ipsum, venenatis malesuada felis quis, ultricies convallis.

Vivamus volutpat eros pulvinar velit laoreet, sit amet egestas erat dignissim. Sed quis rutrum tellus, sit amet viverra felis. Cras sagittis sem sit amet urna feugiat rutrum. Nam nulla ipsum, venenatis malesuada felis quis, ultricies convallis neque. Pellentesque tristique fringilla tempus.

Aivamus volutpat eros pulvinar velit laoreet, sit amet egestas erat dignissim. Sed quis rutrum tellus, sit amet viverra felis. Cras sagittis sem sit amet urna feugiat rutrum. Nam nulla ipsum, venenatis malesuada felis quis, ultricies convallis.

Vivamus volutpat eros pulvinar velit laoreet, sit amet egestas erat dignissim. Sed quis rutrum tellus, sit amet viverra felis. Cras sagittis sem sit amet urna feugiat rutrum. Nam nulla ipsum, venenatis malesuada felis quis, ultricies convallis neque. Pellentesque tristique fringilla tempus.

Aivamus volutpat eros pulvinar velit laoreet, sit amet egestas erat dignissim. Sed quis rutrum tellus, sit amet viverra felis. Cras sagittis sem sit amet urna feugiat rutrum. Nam nulla ipsum, venenatis malesuada felis quis, ultricies convallis.

Vivamus volutpat eros pulvinar velit laoreet, sit amet egestas erat dignissim. Sed quis rutrum tellus, sit amet viverra felis. Cras sagittis sem sit amet urna feugiat rutrum. Nam nulla ipsum, venenatis malesuada felis quis, ultricies convallis neque. Pellentesque tristique fringilla tempus.

Aivamus volutpat eros pulvinar velit laoreet, sit amet egestas erat dignissim. Sed quis rutrum tellus, sit amet viverra felis. Cras sagittis sem sit amet urna feugiat rutrum. Nam nulla ipsum, venenatis malesuada felis quis, ultricies convallis.

Vivamus volutpat eros pulvinar velit laoreet, sit amet egestas erat dignissim. Sed quis rutrum tellus, sit amet viverra felis. Cras sagittis sem sit amet urna feugiat rutrum. Nam nulla ipsum, venenatis malesuada felis quis, ultricies convallis neque. Pellentesque tristique fringilla tempus.